Walking the Final Road

We began our final day in Jerusalem at the Mount of Olives, named so because of the abundance of olive trees that existed centuries ago. Located east of Jerusalem’s Old City, it overlooks the Gardens of Gethsemane (Gat Shemanim - oil or olive press in Hebrew). Located in the Muslim quarter, this is yet another biblical spot that has dual meaning, each believing they are following the one true God. To Jews, it is believed to be the place from which God will begin to redeem the dead when the Messiah comes; Christians believe the Messiah has already come and stood on the Mount of Olives to weep over Jerusalem; and Muslims believe the Messiah will enter here and go straight to the temple of rock. We sat on the Mount of Olives and talked about the need for us as Christians to walk with a broken heart, a brokenness of spirit for those who don\'t know the Christ we know. To be compassionate to those who do not have a relationship with God. Something to remember.

We traveled to the Old City and walked along the outer edge to the Sheep Gate (now called the Lion\'s Gate), the traditional beginning of the Via Dolorosa, the path walked by Jesus during the last hours of his life. The gate leads straight into the Muslim Quarter, and after walking down the church-lined Via Dolorosa for a few minutes, you\'ll walk right into the thick of the marketplace.

We sidetracked for a quick teaching by the ruins of the Pools of Bethesda, where Jesus healed the paralyzed man who had waited for 38 years for someone to help him into the pool “when the water is stirred." Jesus told the man, “Stand up, take your mat and walk”, and immediately he was made well (John 5:2-18), but first Jesus asked did he want o be healed. Because Jesus wanted relationship not to just make miracles. Relationship. Something to remember.

As we left the pools, we stopped in the Church of St. Anne. ok wow! Big wow for all of us! First, it is a beautiful 12th-century Crusader church, erected over the traditional site of the birthplace of Anne (Hannah), the mother of Mary. Saint Anne\'s acoustics, designed for Gregorian chant, are so perfect that the church is virtually a musical instrument to be played by the human voice. We were led into the church, men on one side, women on the other and sang - like a choir, like a well-trained choir. Songs of worship, in English, worshipping our Lord. Wow, again. It was amazing. Another group of Americans (?) at least English speaking asked to join us on stage for the last song. This was such an incredible experience. Something we will long remember.

We continued to climb Via Dolorosa into the crowded marketplace. It was easy to picture the tiny streets bursting at the seems as pilgrims from all over surged into the already crowded city to celebrate the coming Passover over 2000 years ago. Authorities were known to have the condemned maneuver thru the marketplace carrying their cross (or at least the crossbeam) gaining the most attention as a way of warning the crowds again rebellion. So from the Antonio fortress thru the marketplace Jesus would walk. The crowds were overwhelming...from shoppers and merchants pushing their wares, to crowds of religious pilgrims and site seers (including us), we snaked thru the city marketplace pressed together like one big clump of humanity.

Ending at the Church of the Holy Sepulcher, we were swept in along with the crowds. The crowds were huge. We were just pushed along up a narrow stone staircase leading to Calvary now under the church, traditionally regarded as the site of Jesus\' crucifixion and the most lavishly decorated part of the church. The main altar there belongs to the Greek Orthodox, which contains The Rock of Calvary which can be seen under glass on both sides of the altar, and beneath the altar there is a hole said to be the place where the cross was raised. Also, in the same area is the Stone of Anointing, which claims to be the spot where Jesus\' body was prepared for burial. The burial tomb sits quite close as well across the way on the other side of the church. The anointing rock is not 10 feet from the cross and the tomb sits under the same roof of the church. Multiple churches share the site and it is interesting to step back and watch the religious frenzy as people push and shove trying to reach these sites. Similar to our time in Bethlehem; the religion, the frenzy, the sheer push of humanity was staggering. Most of us turned away before getting up to the front of the line. The frenzy was just too much. If we had reached the front, the ritual was the same as Bethlehem at the spot where Jesus was born. Two by two you could kneel and sort of crawl into the man made altar. By touching the silver star marking the spot, you could receive "the special blessing." Generally we left the church feeling a bit overwhelmed and maybe a bit bewildered by it all. Possibly something not to remember.

We ended our time together in the Garden Tombs, sharing communion with the family we have come to know on this trip. Sharing our experience and how God has worked in each of our lives in different ways over he past two weeks. Arriving in Israel 10 days ago, we began our journey to Jerusalem. We began our sojourn in the desert experiencing firsthand the thirst of the people, the dry hot conditions, the need for water and how unforgiving the land can be. After 3 days in the desert, which felt like 12, including climbing Masada, a hike in the Wilderness of Zin, a camel ride and a visit with a Bedouin family, we moved to more pleasant surroundings at the Sea of Galilee to hear about this man called Jesus, his ministry, his miracles, the calling of his disciples. We walked where Jesus walked, saw where miracles were performed, witnessed Baptisms in the Jordan River, spent time out on the Sea of Galilee, on top of Mt. Arbel and at the Mount of Beatitudes.

Arriving at the Holy City of Jerusalem, we walked through the biblical progression of time, learned the culture of the Jewish people then and now, and learned to understand and appreciate some of the cultural, political and economic plights of the Israeli people. We saw were Jesus was born, where he walked and where he was crucified. We climbed through tunnels, prayed at the western wall and walked on the Temple Mount.

How do we begin to explain all that was put in our lives during this trip? On one hand, if I can just touch the rock, touch the star, go to the site, then my life will change. On the other hand, we know it is your faith, your relationship with Jesus that changes you, not a place or a thing. We know that although it is an experience of a lifetime to see what we have seen and learn what we have learned, it doesn\'t really matter where he was born or died, because he now lives in us.

So here\'s the take home:

Yes, Jesus walked on this earth and coming to Israel, the world He walked in is so much brighter, so much more vivid, now that we\'ve been here. However, Jesus is not here, He lives in our hearts, we don\'t have to come to Israel to have Him. Israel is not the holiest place in the world, we are, because today Christ lives in us and wherever we go, He is with us. Many armies and empires have conquered this land, many times over, but only one has ever conquered the hearts of the people. Only Jesus. The true King, still lives, is still changing lives and is the living water that His people need to survive. Something to remember.

Pray for the people of Israel. They live in difficult times. Remembrance.

The Sh\'Ma:
Hear, O Israel:
The Lord is our God
The Lord Alone!
Love The Lord Your God,
With All Your Heart,
And With All Your Soul,
And With All Your Might,
And Love Your Neighbor
As Yourself.
AMEN

Shalom

In the shadow of "greatness"

Arriving in Israel 8 days ago, we began our journey to Jerusalem.   We began our sojourn in the desert experiencing firsthand the thirst of the people, the dry hot conditions, the need for water and how unforgiving the land can be.  We saw our first glimpse of King Herod and his egocentric ruling of the land and people.  We also saw his wealth and self-indulgence with the Masada fortress. We traveled to a Kibbutz in Qumran to see where the Dead Sea Scrolls were found and to hear how they were discovered, preserved and how few of them have been read at this point in time! After 3 days in the desert including a hike in the Wilderness of Zin, a camel ride and a visit with a Bedouin family, we moved to more bearable surroundings at the Sea of Galilee to begin hearing about this man called Jesus, his ministry, his miracles, the calling of his disciples.  

After three days in Galilee, it was difficult to leave.  We walked where Jesus walked, saw where miracles were performed, witnessed Baptisms in the Jordan River, spent time out on the Sea of Galilee, on top of Mt. Arbel and at the Mount of Beatitudes.  But it was time to move on to the Holy City of Jerusalem.  

Since arriving here we have walked through the biblical progression of time, learned the culture of the Jewish people then and now, and learned to understand and appreciate some of the cultural, political and economic plights of the Israeli people. 

Early this morning we began at the Temple Mount.  Although most of us knew somewhat what to expect, it was difficult not to be disappointed, both for us as Christians and for the Jewish people.  The temple is on Mt. Moriah.  Mount Moriah is the north-south stretch of land lying between Kidron Valley and "Hagai" Valley, between Mount Zion to the west and the Mount of Olives to the east. It sits above Gihon Spring. After King David captured the city he made it his capital and named it for himself: the "City of David." 

It is where Abraham was sent by God to sacrifice Isaac.  It is where Jacob had his dream (Gen 28:10-18); a stairway was set on the ground and its top reached to the sky, and angels of God were going up and down on it. And the Lord was standing beside him... Jacob awoke from his sleep and said, ... "How awesome is this place! This is none other than the abode of God and that is the gateway to heaven."   An this sort of says it all...

The nature of the site is simply that it holds extreme religious significance to more than one religion.  It has been used as a religious site for thousands of years. At least four religions are known to have used the Temple Mount: Judaism, Christianity, Roman religion, and Islam.  Two Jewish Temples stood there housing the Holy of Holies, the supreme embodiment of the relationship between God and the people of Israel. The first Jewish temple was built by Solomon and destroyed by the Babylonians.  the second was built 70 years later and destroyed by the Roman Empire.  The location is the holiest site in the Jewish religion and is the place Jews turn towards during prayer. Regardless of where they are, they face Jerusalem when in prayer.  Also, many orthodox Jews will not walk on the Mount itself, to avoid unintentionally entering the area where the Holy of Holies stood all those years ago as this is where the high priests communicated directly with God.  There is even a sign posted at the entrance stating the Rabbinical law.

After the second temple was destroyed, the site was abandoned for some time.  Following the Muslim conquest of Jerusalem, construction of a  Mosque and Dome of the Rock (covering the peak of Moriah) was constructed on the site.  It is one of the oldest Islamic structures in the world and is considered one of the holiest sites in Islam.  It is thought to  be the location where Mohammed ascended to heaven.

In light of the dual claims of both Judaism and Islam, it is one of the most contested religious sites in the world and the tension is more than evident.  The Temple Mount is under Islamic control. In an attempt to keep peace, the Israeli government enforces a strict ban on prayer by non-Muslims. It is clear that neither Christians nor Jews are welcomed.  As you approach the entrance there are 3 lines.  Two to the West Wall/Wailing Wall divided by men or women and one to the Temple Mount.  Going to the Tempe Mount, bags are searched and no prayer items, bible or prayer books can be taken in - as "we" are not allowed to pray, only Muslims. Even our tour study books were confiscated because the Sh’ma (Jewish prayer) was printed on the cover.  It was interesting that 53 of us made it through security first.  Then Paul Savona came through - they took a good look at his study guide, stopped us all and confiscated all our books.  Obviously, he most looked like he might pray!!  While on the Temple  Mount, in the court of the Gentiles, we watched as three orthodox/traditional looking Jews walked across the plaza.  They were closely followed by an Israeli guard and a Muslim guard who were insuring they wouldn't spontaneously break into prayer.  Surreal and very tense.  That "all eyes are watching" feeling.

As we left the Temple Mount, we walked past two Jewish families heading to the Western wall in celebration as it was bar mitzvah day for their sons.  It was a party, a parade with drumming and singing as they danced past us. Very joyful. 

Walking to David's city, we climbed down into the depths of Hezekiah’s tunnel.  The tunnel was an ancient aqueduct designed to route fresh water from Gihon Spring to the city walls.  Walking in 12-24" of fresh, cold water, we wandered the aqueducts narrow (and sometimes short) tunnel, flashlights in hand, winding thru this underground maze.  We came out at Siloam pool (partially excavated) where Jesus sent the blind man to be healed.

Tired and wet, we boarded the bus to head to unfamiliar territory - the West Bank controlled by the Palestinians.  Our tour guide left us as he couldn't cross into the Palestinian territory.  Once crossing the checkpoint, we headed up to our next view of Herod's indulgence - Herodion.   A man made mountain with remains of an enormous fortress/palace on top.  Apparently if you do not have a mountain big enough, high enough to survey all your land, and you are King, you build one.  Why?  Because you can. It's good to be king.  Once again this site is still under excavation and just five years ago Herod's tomb was found at the site.  The site was massive, with a 360 degree view over all the valleys and cities below including Bethlehem.  Hold that thought...

Also under Palestinian control, is Bethlehem.  We parked the bus in an underground parking structure.  Exiting the bus we were immediately besieged by street vendors selling trinkets, bags and statues.  As we moved along, shop after shop lined the narrow, busy streets of Bethlehem trying to draw in the tourist.  As we climbed the hill, I tried to imagine Joseph and Mary coming into the small town looking for shelter, but the bustle of the street, the merchants calling out the deal of moment and the velvet Mary paintings blurred my internal vision. Lead by our Palestinian guide, we approached the church of the Nativity through what seemed like a side door.  We entered a large open church with high wood beamed rustic ceilings.  I tell you that because it kind of goes downhill from there. Three churches share the site - Greek Orthodox, Armenian and Catholic.  The "religion" and decor were over the top.  Chandeliers, tapestries, cheap colored bulbs strung here there and everywhere, candles and lanterns, statues, flowers and shiny gold images behind glass frames. As we moved to the back of the church, we were told that we would be taken to an area under the church altar where Jesus was actually born - the "exact" spot.  Plus about 10 feet away is the "exact" spot of the manger.  We stood in line, actually more of just a crowd waiting to be lead down the stone steps under the church stage.  As we waiting we watched people praying, kneeling, crying, kissing the glass of a large gold-foiled image of Mary.  The incense came wafting through the crowd as we waited.  Finally the group below us moved to one side to begin singing.  In retrospect I don't even know what language it was, maybe English, maybe something else...but the incense, the singing, the heat and the intense emotions being displayed were a bit overwhelming ...not in a good way.

As we descended the 15 stairs to the lower chamber, the walls were covered with cheap tapestries (sorry), an unshielded, oversized low-energy spiral lightbulb hung above the stairs, candles were everywhere and don't forget the incense, did I mention the incense? As you reached the bottom to your right was where Jesus was born.  Basically it looked like a fireplace.  You were to kneel on the marble hearth, sticking your head into the "fireplace," just inside was a 14-point metal star imbedded into the floor of the "fireplace."   This was the spot of birth. We were told by touching or kissing (yuck) the star you received the "special  blessing."  To the left was a little cavern with a grouping of candles in a side shelf - this was the spot of the manger....no manger just candles.  I really wanted to feel something, but it was very hard to relate to.  All I kept thinking was they were making his place of birth a false idol. Kissing a silver star.  Did I mention the incense?

So here's my take home:  

King Hared built this monumental fortress casting a shadow of egocentric greed and self-indulgence. In this shadow, a true King was born ... whether at a spot marked  by a silver star or not, doesn't really matter.  2000 years later, King Herod exists only in history books and his fortresses, every one of them, are just rubble.  The true King, still lives, is still changing lives and is the living water that this desert and its people need to survive. 

Going to Jerusalem, Nazareth

Of course we are warned to not be surprised by what we find in these areas but after leaving the peace, openness and genuine holiness of the Galilee, moving into the Jerusalem area is still a bit overwhelming. We started Day 7 leaving the Galilee and heading south to Nazareth. We just passed through this large overgrown city. Where Jesus, Mary and Joseph lived has a huge Catholic Church built on top of it. We stopped at Mt. Precipice, climbing the hill to get an amazing vantage point - a 360 degree view of the surrounding areas. This is the same mountain, where the people of Nazareth attempted to throw Jesus off the hill. In addition to being a holy site, Mount Precipice provides a spectacular observation point overlooking the Jezreel Valley and the surrounding mountains, including Mt. Tabor where Deborah oversaw battles against the Canaanites during the period of the Judges. We overlooked the Jezreel Valley and once again saw the importance of the East/West Roads for commerce and trade routes. So many wars and battles have taken place here in this region - more than any place else in the world. It\'s not just about war, it\'s about trade/business, about freedoms and rights. It\'s about land, ownership and pride. As we stood on Mt. Precipice, Israeli Fighter Jets would fly overhead. Our guide commented, "Ah, the sound of freedom."

Next we traveled to the Hill of Megiddo (Armageddon). Yep, Armageddon.
A place that potentially has more future significance than historical impact. John says it ends here. This is where we will see armies camped all around, massed and ready to fight, Jesus comes in on a white horse - His army dressed in white linen. There are 26 layers of civilization under Megiddo ( in other words it has been destroyed 25 times). Intense place. As for Armageddon, well you can read the end of the book.

On our continuing journey to Jerusalem, we then traveled to Mt Carmel. In Israel, mountain tops are reserved for worship. Mt. Carmel means Gods Vineyard and overlooks the Mediterranean’s shore, making it a strategic site for defense of the fertile lands below it. This mount is known as the place of the contest between Elijah and 450 prophets of Baal. Sitting at the top, we had a great teaching on Elijah reminding us of what it looks like to have total confidence in and obedience to God. Also that as soon as we have repentance, grace and mercy follow.

We traveled to Caesaria, right on the Mediterranean, the largest harbor in world at the time. Another of King Harod\'s palaces, this one was built in the sea, no not by the sea - in the sea! With concrete made from ash, sand, water - marble and granite were also imported from Rome. Amazing. Although they had excavated the theatre and various other structures some time ago, in the last 5 years, they unearthed (or in this case found in the sea) Harod\'s palace. Next to it on land was the prison where for two years Paul was in a prisoner. Act 24,25,26. We got to hear Chris Brown read Paul\'s defense/testimony right from the spot that Paul originally made his plea. It was a wow,a big wow.

We had the opportunity to walk the beach, put our tired, swollen feet in the Mediterranean as well as gather rocks, seashells and YES even bits of 1st century pottery, marble and tile that had washed up on the beach.

Don\'t look at me while I eat...

Day 5 - Prt 2 and Day 6

Running behind in writing so too much stored in my head. Today we journey to Jerusalem.

When we left Caesaria Philippi on monday, we hiked the path of the Jordan. Multiple springs converge at Banias Falls ... huge waterfall surrounded by lush foliage and trees. Amazingly beautiful, of course the 70-80 stone steps rising out of the waterfall overlook back to the plateau was not so refreshing. We then went to the Dan region. DAN is the most Northern spot in Israel, along the Lebanon border. We sat on the temple stairs and learned about this tribe who created this temple of idolatry. Beginning as a temple to the Lord, it was compromised and prostituted adding idols and eventually becoming a temple instead of a synagogue. Described as the most wicked tribe in all of Israel, only 1% of the City of Dan has been excavated. It is amazing how much of the ancient and biblical sites were buried into 749 earthquake. Israel experiences a LARGE earthquake about every 100 years.

We hiked through amazing park-like setting to reach the Dan Temple ruins. With one of the 7 springs that feed the Jordan underfoot the entire way, we balance on rocks were refreshed by the shaded trail and running waters.

We ended our day at the Jordan River. After a short hike we found a clearing away from the tourist park. Chris and Paul invited anyone wanting to be baptized, amazing declaration of faith and renewal. Probably half our group were baptized, some for the first time, some for renewal. It was truly amazing and something I will long remember. Chris Brown was so elated, I\'m not sure his feet ever touched the mud of the Jordan bottom. On one note of interest, the current was so strong a couple of our guys were able to swim against the current as if they were in an endless pool ... never going anywhere. Of course once they stopped, they were whisked downstream.

Yesterday, started with a wonderful boat ride out onto the Galilee. We spent quiet time with God looking out over the surge of waves. As we pulled from dock, they played the Star Spangled Banner and Mick had the privilege of raising the American Flag up next to the Israel flag. During our quiet time we listed to worship music and then heard a message from Pastor Paul. The momentum shifted as our guide Ronan switched to Hava Nagila (Wake up Brother) and taught everyone Jewish dance. You can see the video on Facebook!! We came back to shore under the tune of When the Saints go marching in. Pretty cool morning. As we came off the boat there were crate after crate of fish - Israel Talapia on the docks, something to remember for later in the story.

We traveled to Beit She\'an, meaning House of security. A very important area as it was one of the most important crossroads in Israel, having both north-south access as well as east west. We hiked thru the city gates up to what was Beit She\\\'an. Temperatures were well over 100, so the hike was hot, dusty and not particularly interesting or attractive. As we reached to the top of the tel were the ruins of the city gates. These were the gates were Saul\\\'s body, as well as his son Jonathan\'s body, were hung to prove they were dead. 1 Samuel 31.

As we reached the top of the hill (or maybe it was a mountain - in 100 degree weather, it felt like a mountain) we were told there were 27 levels of civilization under us. Hiking over the top, we came to the excavation site of Beit She\\\'an. Turned to a Roman city, a Las Vegas of its time. Theatre, largest bathhouse in the world, marketplace, etc. Huge! For its time it was a was a place of self-indulgence, temptation and luxury. It has been under excavation for 64 years and is maybe 20% uncovered.

We traveled to Harod Springs at the foot of Mt. Gilboa where the Philistines chased Saul to his death, hence the bodies on the Beit She\'an gates.

And then, and then, and then .....we took the afternoon off! Grilled hotdogs in the park and swam under the waterfalls and huge natural pools in Harod Springs. Beautiful.

Returning to our Kabutz, we had dinner at the Fish House ... A giant grilled fish, eyes and all, laying on a plate, seriously mine was the same one I saw in the crates ... I recognized his eyes.