After three days in Galilee, it was difficult to leave. We walked where Jesus walked, saw where miracles were performed, witnessed Baptisms in the Jordan River, spent time out on the Sea of Galilee, on top of Mt. Arbel and at the Mount of Beatitudes. But it was time to move on to the Holy City of Jerusalem.
Since arriving here we have walked through the biblical progression of time, learned the culture of the Jewish people then and now, and learned to understand and appreciate some of the cultural, political and economic plights of the Israeli people.
Early this morning we began at the Temple Mount. Although most of us knew somewhat what to expect, it was difficult not to be disappointed, both for us as Christians and for the Jewish people. The temple is on Mt. Moriah. Mount Moriah is the north-south stretch of land lying between Kidron Valley and "Hagai" Valley, between Mount Zion to the west and the Mount of Olives to the east. It sits above Gihon Spring. After King David captured the city he made it his capital and named it for himself: the "City of David."
It is where Abraham was sent by God to sacrifice Isaac. It is where Jacob had his dream (Gen 28:10-18); a stairway was set on the ground and its top reached to the sky, and angels of God were going up and down on it. And the Lord was standing beside him... Jacob awoke from his sleep and said, ... "How awesome is this place! This is none other than the abode of God and that is the gateway to heaven." An this sort of says it all...
As we left the Temple Mount, we walked past two Jewish families heading to the Western wall in celebration as it was bar mitzvah day for their sons. It was a party, a parade with drumming and singing as they danced past us. Very joyful.
The nature of the site is simply that it holds extreme religious significance to more than one religion. It has been used as a religious site for thousands of years. At least four religions are known to have used the Temple Mount: Judaism, Christianity, Roman religion, and Islam. Two Jewish Temples stood there housing the Holy of Holies, the supreme embodiment of the relationship between God and the people of Israel. The first Jewish temple was built by Solomon and destroyed by the Babylonians. the second was built 70 years later and destroyed by the Roman Empire. The location is the holiest site in the Jewish religion and is the place Jews turn towards during prayer. Regardless of where they are, they face Jerusalem when in prayer. Also, many orthodox Jews will not walk on the Mount itself, to avoid unintentionally entering the area where the Holy of Holies stood all those years ago as this is where the high priests communicated directly with God. There is even a sign posted at the entrance stating the Rabbinical law.
After the second temple was destroyed, the site was abandoned for some time. Following the Muslim conquest of Jerusalem, construction of a Mosque and Dome of the Rock (covering the peak of Moriah) was constructed on the site. It is one of the oldest Islamic structures in the world and is considered one of the holiest sites in Islam. It is thought to be the location where Mohammed ascended to heaven.
In light of the dual claims of both Judaism and Islam, it is one of the most contested religious sites in the world and the tension is more than evident. The Temple Mount is under Islamic control. In an attempt to keep peace, the Israeli government enforces a strict ban on prayer by non-Muslims. It is clear that neither Christians nor Jews are welcomed. As you approach the entrance there are 3 lines. Two to the West Wall/Wailing Wall divided by men or women and one to the Temple Mount. Going to the Tempe Mount, bags are searched and no prayer items, bible or prayer books can be taken in - as "we" are not allowed to pray, only Muslims. Even our tour study books were confiscated because the Sh’ma (Jewish prayer) was printed on the cover. It was interesting that 53 of us made it through security first. Then Paul Savona came through - they took a good look at his study guide, stopped us all and confiscated all our books. Obviously, he most looked like he might pray!! While on the Temple Mount, in the court of the Gentiles, we watched as three orthodox/traditional looking Jews walked across the plaza. They were closely followed by an Israeli guard and a Muslim guard who were insuring they wouldn't spontaneously break into prayer. Surreal and very tense. That "all eyes are watching" feeling.
Walking to David's city, we climbed down into the depths of Hezekiah’s tunnel. The tunnel was an ancient aqueduct designed to route fresh water from Gihon Spring to the city walls. Walking in 12-24" of fresh, cold water, we wandered the aqueducts narrow (and sometimes short) tunnel, flashlights in hand, winding thru this underground maze. We came out at Siloam pool (partially excavated) where Jesus sent the blind man to be healed.
Tired and wet, we boarded the bus to head to unfamiliar territory - the West Bank controlled by the Palestinians. Our tour guide left us as he couldn't cross into the Palestinian territory. Once crossing the checkpoint, we headed up to our next view of Herod's indulgence - Herodion. A man made mountain with remains of an enormous fortress/palace on top. Apparently if you do not have a mountain big enough, high enough to survey all your land, and you are King, you build one. Why? Because you can. It's good to be king. Once again this site is still under excavation and just five years ago Herod's tomb was found at the site. The site was massive, with a 360 degree view over all the valleys and cities below including Bethlehem. Hold that thought...
Also under Palestinian control, is Bethlehem. We parked the bus in an underground parking structure. Exiting the bus we were immediately besieged by street vendors selling trinkets, bags and statues. As we moved along, shop after shop lined the narrow, busy streets of Bethlehem trying to draw in the tourist. As we climbed the hill, I tried to imagine Joseph and Mary coming into the small town looking for shelter, but the bustle of the street, the merchants calling out the deal of moment and the velvet Mary paintings blurred my internal vision. Lead by our Palestinian guide, we approached the church of the Nativity through what seemed like a side door. We entered a large open church with high wood beamed rustic ceilings. I tell you that because it kind of goes downhill from there. Three churches share the site - Greek Orthodox, Armenian and Catholic. The "religion" and decor were over the top. Chandeliers, tapestries, cheap colored bulbs strung here there and everywhere, candles and lanterns, statues, flowers and shiny gold images behind glass frames. As we moved to the back of the church, we were told that we would be taken to an area under the church altar where Jesus was actually born - the "exact" spot. Plus about 10 feet away is the "exact" spot of the manger. We stood in line, actually more of just a crowd waiting to be lead down the stone steps under the church stage. As we waiting we watched people praying, kneeling, crying, kissing the glass of a large gold-foiled image of Mary. The incense came wafting through the crowd as we waited. Finally the group below us moved to one side to begin singing. In retrospect I don't even know what language it was, maybe English, maybe something else...but the incense, the singing, the heat and the intense emotions being displayed were a bit overwhelming ...not in a good way.
As we descended the 15 stairs to the lower chamber, the walls were covered with cheap tapestries (sorry), an unshielded, oversized low-energy spiral lightbulb hung above the stairs, candles were everywhere and don't forget the incense, did I mention the incense? As you reached the bottom to your right was where Jesus was born. Basically it looked like a fireplace. You were to kneel on the marble hearth, sticking your head into the "fireplace," just inside was a 14-point metal star imbedded into the floor of the "fireplace." This was the spot of birth. We were told by touching or kissing (yuck) the star you received the "special blessing." To the left was a little cavern with a grouping of candles in a side shelf - this was the spot of the manger....no manger just candles. I really wanted to feel something, but it was very hard to relate to. All I kept thinking was they were making his place of birth a false idol. Kissing a silver star. Did I mention the incense?
So here's my take home:
King Hared built this monumental fortress casting a shadow of egocentric greed and self-indulgence. In this shadow, a true King was born ... whether at a spot marked by a silver star or not, doesn't really matter. 2000 years later, King Herod exists only in history books and his fortresses, every one of them, are just rubble. The true King, still lives, is still changing lives and is the living water that this desert and its people need to survive.
