We began our final day in Jerusalem at the Mount of Olives, named so because of the abundance of olive trees that existed centuries ago. Located east of Jerusalem’s Old City, it overlooks the Gardens of Gethsemane (Gat Shemanim - oil or olive press in Hebrew). Located in the Muslim quarter, this is yet another biblical spot that has dual meaning, each believing they are following the one true God. To Jews, it is believed to be the place from which God will begin to redeem the dead when the Messiah comes; Christians believe the Messiah has already come and stood on the Mount of Olives to weep over Jerusalem; and Muslims believe the Messiah will enter here and go straight to the temple of rock. We sat on the Mount of Olives and talked about the need for us as Christians to walk with a broken heart, a brokenness of spirit for those who don\'t know the Christ we know. To be compassionate to those who do not have a relationship with God. Something to remember.
We traveled to the Old City and walked along the outer edge to the Sheep Gate (now called the Lion\'s Gate), the traditional beginning of the Via Dolorosa, the path walked by Jesus during the last hours of his life. The gate leads straight into the Muslim Quarter, and after walking down the church-lined Via Dolorosa for a few minutes, you\'ll walk right into the thick of the marketplace.
We sidetracked for a quick teaching by the ruins of the Pools of Bethesda, where Jesus healed the paralyzed man who had waited for 38 years for someone to help him into the pool “when the water is stirred." Jesus told the man, “Stand up, take your mat and walk”, and immediately he was made well (John 5:2-18), but first Jesus asked did he want o be healed. Because Jesus wanted relationship not to just make miracles. Relationship. Something to remember.
As we left the pools, we stopped in the Church of St. Anne. ok wow! Big wow for all of us! First, it is a beautiful 12th-century Crusader church, erected over the traditional site of the birthplace of Anne (Hannah), the mother of Mary. Saint Anne\'s acoustics, designed for Gregorian chant, are so perfect that the church is virtually a musical instrument to be played by the human voice. We were led into the church, men on one side, women on the other and sang - like a choir, like a well-trained choir. Songs of worship, in English, worshipping our Lord. Wow, again. It was amazing. Another group of Americans (?) at least English speaking asked to join us on stage for the last song. This was such an incredible experience. Something we will long remember.
We continued to climb Via Dolorosa into the crowded marketplace. It was easy to picture the tiny streets bursting at the seems as pilgrims from all over surged into the already crowded city to celebrate the coming Passover over 2000 years ago. Authorities were known to have the condemned maneuver thru the marketplace carrying their cross (or at least the crossbeam) gaining the most attention as a way of warning the crowds again rebellion. So from the Antonio fortress thru the marketplace Jesus would walk. The crowds were overwhelming...from shoppers and merchants pushing their wares, to crowds of religious pilgrims and site seers (including us), we snaked thru the city marketplace pressed together like one big clump of humanity.
Ending at the Church of the Holy Sepulcher, we were swept in along with the crowds. The crowds were huge. We were just pushed along up a narrow stone staircase leading to Calvary now under the church, traditionally regarded as the site of Jesus\' crucifixion and the most lavishly decorated part of the church. The main altar there belongs to the Greek Orthodox, which contains The Rock of Calvary which can be seen under glass on both sides of the altar, and beneath the altar there is a hole said to be the place where the cross was raised. Also, in the same area is the Stone of Anointing, which claims to be the spot where Jesus\' body was prepared for burial. The burial tomb sits quite close as well across the way on the other side of the church. The anointing rock is not 10 feet from the cross and the tomb sits under the same roof of the church. Multiple churches share the site and it is interesting to step back and watch the religious frenzy as people push and shove trying to reach these sites. Similar to our time in Bethlehem; the religion, the frenzy, the sheer push of humanity was staggering. Most of us turned away before getting up to the front of the line. The frenzy was just too much. If we had reached the front, the ritual was the same as Bethlehem at the spot where Jesus was born. Two by two you could kneel and sort of crawl into the man made altar. By touching the silver star marking the spot, you could receive "the special blessing." Generally we left the church feeling a bit overwhelmed and maybe a bit bewildered by it all. Possibly something not to remember.
We ended our time together in the Garden Tombs, sharing communion with the family we have come to know on this trip. Sharing our experience and how God has worked in each of our lives in different ways over he past two weeks. Arriving in Israel 10 days ago, we began our journey to Jerusalem. We began our sojourn in the desert experiencing firsthand the thirst of the people, the dry hot conditions, the need for water and how unforgiving the land can be. After 3 days in the desert, which felt like 12, including climbing Masada, a hike in the Wilderness of Zin, a camel ride and a visit with a Bedouin family, we moved to more pleasant surroundings at the Sea of Galilee to hear about this man called Jesus, his ministry, his miracles, the calling of his disciples. We walked where Jesus walked, saw where miracles were performed, witnessed Baptisms in the Jordan River, spent time out on the Sea of Galilee, on top of Mt. Arbel and at the Mount of Beatitudes.
Arriving at the Holy City of Jerusalem, we walked through the biblical progression of time, learned the culture of the Jewish people then and now, and learned to understand and appreciate some of the cultural, political and economic plights of the Israeli people. We saw were Jesus was born, where he walked and where he was crucified. We climbed through tunnels, prayed at the western wall and walked on the Temple Mount.
How do we begin to explain all that was put in our lives during this trip? On one hand, if I can just touch the rock, touch the star, go to the site, then my life will change. On the other hand, we know it is your faith, your relationship with Jesus that changes you, not a place or a thing. We know that although it is an experience of a lifetime to see what we have seen and learn what we have learned, it doesn\'t really matter where he was born or died, because he now lives in us.
So here\'s the take home:
Yes, Jesus walked on this earth and coming to Israel, the world He walked in is so much brighter, so much more vivid, now that we\'ve been here. However, Jesus is not here, He lives in our hearts, we don\'t have to come to Israel to have Him. Israel is not the holiest place in the world, we are, because today Christ lives in us and wherever we go, He is with us. Many armies and empires have conquered this land, many times over, but only one has ever conquered the hearts of the people. Only Jesus. The true King, still lives, is still changing lives and is the living water that His people need to survive. Something to remember.
Pray for the people of Israel. They live in difficult times. Remembrance.
The Sh\'Ma:
Hear, O Israel:
The Lord is our God
The Lord Alone!
Love The Lord Your God,
With All Your Heart,
And With All Your Soul,
And With All Your Might,
And Love Your Neighbor
As Yourself.
AMEN
Shalom
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